THE MORTALITY OF CHEESE // Part One: We are what we eat, we are what we make

Herding and making natural lactic cheeses in the dry region of Provence in southern France reminds me that real food is ephemeral and as mortal as its maker.

This is a special cheese whose production existed for 2 years and then vanished, destined for a piece later this autumn

Coming up are a series of pieces around the ephemerality of real food and as promised, we begin with a three-parter trip to France where I was able to really hone some ideas about provenance, authenticity and the importance of scarcity.…